Swimming with the small fish now !

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After a couple of days staying in Exmouth I moved out to Kurrajong campground in the Cape range National Park. The campsites are so popular (to those that know about them) that they are often full, I booked this campsite online well in advance luckily. For $7 per night you get to camp just over the dunes from a beach with coral and tropical fish just metres off-shore. No expensive boat rides needed to snorkel on the reef here ! The main reef is just a few hundred metres off-shore, close enough to easily hear the waves crashing on it.
The coral is mainly of the hard varieties, and perhaps not so colourful as in other places, but the fish were !
These photos were taken with a Panasonic Lumix waterproof camera, the focusing was a bit slow underwater, especially when using telephoto. The auto focus could n’t keep up with the wave movement on the surface, I found you had to use the wide-angle setting and dive closer to get accurate focus.
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This fellow was easy to snap, he was n't going anywhere

This fellow was easy to snap, he was n’t going anywhere

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And at the end of a pleasant day snorkelling, you could sit on the beach with your choice of beverage and watch the sun setting over the ocean, like this :

There is nothing like a sunset over the ocean, is there ?

There is nothing like a sunset over the ocean, is there ?

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Swimming with the big fish !

Whale shark, Ningaloo Reef

Whale shark, Ningaloo Reef

Well that’s one item ticked off my bucket list ….. swimming with the Whale Sharks at Ningaloo reef, off Exmouth. Perhaps it was not quite as spectacular as other peoples’ experience, as we only managed 2 swims, both with “small’ sharks, only about 6 metres long. Other people have had longer swims with bigger sharks, up to 12m or so (whale sharks are the biggest fish on the planet), but still it is 2 swims more than I had done before so I am not too worried about their size.

When the boat skipper finds a shark he places you ahead of it so you can jump in along it’s path and wait for it to swim past, then follow if you can. It was awesome to see one loom up out of the distance and totally ignore you as it swims past, mouth wide open gobbling down the plankton. Our boat skipper was a bit stressed at only being able to find us 2 “small” fish, as he prides himself on having the longest run of customer satisfaction, a season and a half of sightings, among all the boats ( 2 boats did not see anything the day before). All the big fish kept diving as we approached !

After stopping for lunch we had a bonus which more than made up for any disappointment though …..Manta Rays ! Up to 6 appeared out of nowhere so we all geared up and jumped in quickly. A pair of them just cruised around and around our group in the water then when they swam off another headed straight for us, causing everybody to scatter out of his way. At one point I was videoing one ray on my GoPro, about 2 metres below me, when another followed it, coming from behind me less than a metre beneath me ! According to one of our guides, when you see 2 or more manta rays “in formation” as these two were, the first one is a female, and the others are male, who “suck up” to the female by copying her moves and trying to impress her !

Manta Ray

Manta Ray

Manta Ray

Manta Ray

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They looked so majestic as they “flew” through the water, we were all enthralled watching them. They must have swam around us for at least 30 minutes before heading off into the distance. Absolutely wonderful !
(these photos were taken by the crew photographer, hopefully I will be able to edit my GoPro video into something worth watching on youtube )

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Welcome to Gnomesville

What a happy bunch of gnomes !

What a happy bunch of gnomes !

What a happy bunch of garden gnomes, and why would n’t they be happy with a view like this :

The view from Gnomesville

The view from Gnomesville

I was driving north along the Northwest Coastal Highway when I saw some caravans and mobile homes parked on top of a flat topped mesa-like hill rising out of the flat plain, so I decided to check it out as a possible camp for the night. It was too open and exposed for a tent or swag so I drove on, but not before I found these fellows :

Gnomes left by travellers over the years

Gnomes left by travellers over the years

I don’t know how or why it started, but over the years travellers have been leaving garden gnomes and other figures at this scenic lookout, some with messages of remembrance for departed friends and family …..just one of the many roadside oddities you see while driving in Australia.

A view all the way to the coast

A view all the way to the coast

The location of “Gnomesville” is at the Gladstone scenic lookout, 51 km north of the Overlander roadhouse . (25 59 09 S 114 17 55 E )

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Shark Bay / Monkey Mia

meet "Nicky"

meet “Nicky”

Next stop was at Denham, for a visit to Shark Bay and the dolphins of Monkey Mia. The dolphins are famous for coming in to the shore for a feed of fish, so famous that the Conservation Department had to introduce strict rules so that they stayed wild and did not rely on people to feed them. Only a few people get chosen to feed each dolphin, who each only get fed a maximum of 3 times a day, but on the morning I went only one dolphin came in for a feed early in the morning so all the tourists that slept in and turned up later were disappointed…. but not these two girls :

2 lucky kids get to feed a dolphin

2 lucky kids get to feed a dolphin

The other main attraction in the area is the Francois Peron National Park, which would have been a nice place to camp for a night or two….. if it was not so windy ! I drove right to the tip of the Cape, to the lookout at Skipjack Point where it was so windy I could n’t stand upright.

50kms each way of red sand !

50kms each way of red sand !

It was 4WD all the way but not too difficult, although one hill on the way back needed 2 attempts to get up it. The Park used to be a sheep station, and many of the old buildings are open to look around. It’s shearing shed was relatively small, only a six stand shed. According to the information boards the shed was originally closer to the coast for ease of transport, but that made it too close to the pub in town and too easy for the shearers to get drunk, so the shed was moved away from temptation out to the homestead !

Inside of the shearing shed

Inside of the shearing shed

Unless you were a keen deepsea angler there is not much to see around Denham except the dolphins and the National Park, so 2 nights was plenty long enough for me …back on the road again !
There were a couple of zoological oddities just off the main road that I stopped to take a look at :

Stromatolites - formed by the oldest organism on Earth

Stromatolites – formed by the oldest organism on Earth

They may look like rocks, but these are stromatolites, formed by cyanobacteria that first evolved 3.5 billions years ago, which makes them the oldest organism on Earth ! Over the first 2 billion years they produced enough oxygen to raise the oxygen level to 20% and enabled the evolution of air breathing life…such as us, so say thank you to these “rocks”!
The other oddity was Shell Beach, where the water is so saline that only one type of cockle can survive in the salty waters, and the beach is made up of millions of cockle shells. These get washed up onto the beach where they get compacted down under their own weight, break down and release calcium carbonate, and form a natural “concrete” which used to be quarried into blocks and used to construct local buildings.

Shell Beach

Shell Beach

Then it was back onto the highway and heading north again :

Now I'm officially in the North West !

Now I’m officially in the North West !

Next stop “Gnomesville” ….Gnomesville ? …all will be revealed in my next post !

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Chasing the sun – Kalgoorlie to Kalbarri

After Kalgoorlie it was time to move on, chasing the sun northwards for some warmth ! I headed north and across to the coast, bypassing perth and surrounding area, I’m not a city boy.
Last night was spent at Cliff Head North, where I met Richard and Soph that I mentioned in my last post. This spot was a great stopover, free camping right next to the beach. It was certainly in stark contrast to the adjacent shire, the Shire of Carnamah, which had “No Camping” signs every 5 kms along the roadside plus at every little track off the main road.
Free camping by the beach

Welcome to Hutt River

Welcome to Hutt River

Next stop was at the “Hutt River Province” … a wheat farm that declared itself independent in 1970 . The state government introduced quotas for wheat farmers, and Leonard Casley was allocated only 100 acres after already sowing thousands of acres.
After the government threatened to resume their land, Leonard Casley declared the Principality of Hutt River independent.
At one stage “Prince Leonard” declared war on Australia, then while the Australian government was still laughing, proclaimed peace 3 days later and quoted some point of international law which, according to him, justified his claim of independence because the province was undefeated. Since then he has appointed Ambassadors and consuls, even a Commander of his Navy although the only water on his farm is a small dam !

The flag flying proudly

The flag flying proudly

The royal limousine

The royal limousine

Prince Leonard was not there when I visited, he had taken his wife “abroad” to Perth for medical treatment, but I did get to met Prince Ian, his son. Some people reckon he is a bit of a nutter, the government just ignores him, but he is making money from tourists, plus his farm income, so I reckon good on him !
The next morning it was a short drive to the coast and on to Kalbarri, with the sun shining and the temperature several degrees warmer, life was looking better !
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There is a rather impressive gorge in the Kalbarri National Park, with a couple of good walks. Of the 2 walks the shorter “gorge trail” was the best IMHO ….parts of it were rather “Indiana Jones-ish” , climbing ladders and clambering over rocks, with part of the trail along a narrow crack in the rocks. The “Loop ” walk is much longer and hotter, and less rewarding in my opinion.
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Surfing Jakes Point

Surfing Jakes Point

Kalbarri is also known as a surfing spot, so I took the chance to get some surfing pics. More practice needed I think !

Tomorrow it is back on the road, heading further north towards Coral Bay and then Exmouth.

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This couple make my trip look like a Sunday drive !

The other night I camped at “Cliff Head North” which I must add to my list of favourite camp sites, but what I want to tell you about now are the couple that I camped next to that night. Sophie and Richard are driving home from Sydney to Britain, via outback Australia, shipping their 4WD to Capetown, then northwards from Capetown through Africa. You can read their blog at http://morgansafari.com/
I cannot imagine all the paperwork that would be involved with customs along the way, let alone the logistics of driving through all those countries. They are also trying to raise money to fund the purchase of mosquito nets to help prevent malaria, so if you have a few dollars to spare ……..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76874139@N05/8694701395/

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